detours

We've been nestled back into Kathmandu for the past couple of days now since our 25 day trip turned into 15 days of glorious and torturous heights.  Our tales included two Swedes, sore knees, suspension bridges, a snowstorm whose flakes resembled Dip N Dots vanilla ice cream, local lodges, a lama slumber party, mountains of the most famous caliber, the cutest (and some of the more annoying) Sherpa babies, hard decisions, and thankful encounters.  Perhaps the best way to go about this telling of our times is to just share with you some of my daily entries.  

Day One: Monday, March 17, 2008.

Our 25 days to and from Sagarmatha began with a dreaded bus ride to Jiri.  The alleged 10 hours, however, was 7, and we did not lose our lives.  It was an absolute roller coaster and Britta nervously spun our Om Shante luck ring.  I never want to forget the old monk whose eyes were glass and smile broad.  His unusually large hands comforted his sister monk like a father as the bus swerved to the dislike of her stomach and equilibrium.  We officially begin our hike tomorrow, and for the night are resting at Sagarmatha Lodge & Cafe House Restaurant, room Makalu 8463 meters (Everest is across the hall, home to the Spaniards).  Wel-come.

Day Two: Tuesday, March 18, 2008.

On our journey from Jiri to Sivalaya we took an unexpected detour some 3 hours down a valley into the backyards of farmers building houses made of stone they chiseled themselves.  We were lost.  A cute 10 year old boy held 100 Rupees in one hand and a smile in the other as we paid him a modest sum to take us to a small mountain town bordered by a river.  

Our aching bodies drank milk tea, rejoined the comradery of our Swedish boys, and gained two more: Sarah from Holland and Robbie from California [the only American we would see for 10 days], plus a host of sweet Sherpas with healthy laughs and chess skills (I got cornered into checkmate after 8 minutes).  We are joined by candlelight and food at the 'New' Sherpa Guide Lodge & Valley Restaurant that boasts of "The Best Chips in Nepal."

Day Four: Thursday, March 20, 2008.

"Hello, pen." -every child we past from Bandar to Kinja who robotically asked for pens and sweets.  A cutie little boy was the only one on the giving end as he gifted Britta with a smile and a flower.  We a much-needed pitstop in Kinja for some food and relaxation.  The sun has left us with crisp layers of red skin and our packs with arthritic shoulders and necks.  After a wee rest we plan to hike on up to Sete for a night's rest...we'll see.

And so it is that we made it up the long climb where Kinja turned into a village of dollhouses and construction men hit on us.  

We found ourselves at yet another Sherpa Guide Lodge with a beautiful stairwell, comfortable beds, and the most adorable staff (8 year old houseboy and the Nepali version of Edge, U2's electric guitar player).  With good advice from him, the German couple and their guide, and the smiling good nature of their two porters, this was more than a pleasant stay.

Day Six: Saturday, March 22, 2008.

Rest Day...and how grand it is to rest.  Our little crew of Tobie & Johan (our unofficial Swedish trekking partners) and Demien & Connor (young father and 11 year old son from Vancouver, Canada) all took the day of leisure in Junbesi at the 70s Happy New Year/Merry Christmas decor of Junbesi Guest Lodge & Restaurant.  

We anticipated our remaining journey, shared in the agony/thrill of our previous leg, read, bathed in the sun, walked around the small village, did not go to the monastery because we chose to be lazy, and found Milky-like biscuits (a favorite brand).

I also discovered Sherpa Stew...a new staple in my remaining meals.

The legs are ready for more.

Day Eight: Monday, March 24, 2008.

Starting the day off, we continued down, down, down through rainforest surroundings of singing birds and mossy trees to the foot of the Dudh Kosi River where we crossed a steel bridge that would be used in movies if only you could carry cameras through such terrain.

As we turned upward, we made a lunch pitstop in Chokha where the chairman of something (Britta's convinced he was a political figurehead) greeting us with a welcoming smile.

We continued up and down through Kara Koli and up the interminable hike to Bupsa...ah, Bupsa....our little paradise.  What we thought was  a 5:00pm arrival was actually 2:30pm, so Gajid Sherpa hosted us with our first hot shower, took us to the small town's monastery, and insisted that we spin the giant prayer wheels while Bamala, his wife, filled us up with the tastiest of food.  Part of us wants to stay here forever with the cutest Sherpa couple.

Day Ten: Wednesday, March 26, 2008.

And we made it...to Namche, that is.  The long day from Cheplung to Namche finally came and now we are waiting in this truly bizarre mini-Pokhara/Thamel Disneyworld nestled in between the Himalayas at 3440meters (11,000ish feet) with streams upon streams of Asians and pre-teen Europeans bombarding our once difficult but treasured lonely path.  

We took our time stopping in Phakding for tea and biscuits and Monjo for the best lunch yet (fresh tomato soup, hot mango juice, and homemade jam...we're definitely stopping there on the way back), and then after crossing bridge after bridge of rough wind and loose boards, we put one foot in front of the other up to Hotel Tibet where the prices have officially risen and the dinner are much warmer.  We made a pitstop late in the afternoon at the Namche Bakery (surprise, surprise) and met our first group of Americans coming back down from Kala Pathar and Island Peak.  It appears that Britta and I have reached semi-celebrity status for our long trek from Jiri with no porters.  

I slept curled up like a hermit crab which does nothing good for your back...blanket tomorrow night for sure.

And so we'll take another much-needed day off to get even more used to this lack of oxygen and tourist crowds...and hopefully clothe ourselves more appropriately for the cold.

Day Twelve:  Friday, March 28, 2008.

We woke up this morning with plans to hike to Tengboche via the Everest View Hotel.  We stored away our excess baggage, stuffed the 10 Snicker bars in our packs, hugged our boys and said Adieu (they were headed for the treasured Goyko Circuit...which I will for sure do next time)...Unfortunately, on the way up to the hotel, Britta started feeling much worse than the day before.  

With our bodies so exhausted from Jiri, the slightest bit of illness cripples the body, and so she descended back to Namche to rest and I went on to see the clouded Everest, Nuptse, and the staggering beauty of Ama Dablam.  I sipped my hot lemon in the midst of these giants and silence, minus the wind and a few birds.

I am so thankful that we made it this far, and perhaps later in my life I'll be back to visit this hidden (except to the thousands of expeditions and groups shuffled in and all the China media attention about running the torch to the top of the North Face) landscape.

We are going to try to make it to Tengboche for a few nights tomorrow via the much easier path..step by step.

If not, we've already concocted a rather fabulous remainder of our stay including K-du, Osborne, Pokhara, and our babies.

Day Thirteen: Saturday, March 29, 2008.

Once again we awoke and packed our bags for Tengboche.  We made it to the Stupa with a cloudless perfect view of Lhotse Shar, Everest, and Ama Dablam.  We took picture after picture of the mountains, us with them, Chuck (my ugly doll) and Buddha (for Britta's dad) with them.  It was beautiful.

We kissed the air, and with mixed emotions turned downwind toward Lukla.  Though my overtly competitive nature was disappointed that we couldn't be closer, that we couldn't finish our 'setout task' (whatever that American mindset means), I was far more overwhelmed with thankfulness to God for bringing us to this country together, for giving us good health, and allowing us the wisdom to maintain such health.

Thank you God for your presence, and Britta's friendship.

Day Fifteen: Monday, March 31, 2008.

As the early sun opened up my lids yet again, we watched the mountains for one last intimate time as we boarded a 20 passenger Sita Air carrier and flew in 20 minutes what it took for us 10 hours by bus and 10 days by feet.

Everything was surreal from above, as it usually is:  rice paddies and terraces that resemble an architect's model or an earth-sized tapestry.  The mountains were there, and then they weren't.  

And so we flew our tiny plane into Kathmandu, got the news that the Kathmandu Guest House was full, wandered into an even more delightful lodge, Sun Rise Cottages, and Osborne welcomed us back with open arms for the remainder of our week here.

The day continued to get better as Britta found her puffy vest, we ate a delicious dinner at the Organic Cafe (put organic in the title and Westerners will come) while eavesdropping on the table next to us that included Tim, a Canadian Everest expedition leader- definitely googling him later on- and the greatest news of all, and perhaps a perfect ending to our eclectic Nepali travels: a Guru-guided 4-day adventure in the backwoods of Pokhora--staying only with the families along the road, and getting as far away from tourists as possible.  This would be after we make a day visit back to our kiddos to pick up a package, take some photos in their new clothes sent by my family and do some lovin (we have a feeling that Jamuna is going to just run up to us crying).

This would also mean that we would have traveled to our major destinations 2 or more times each...just hopscotching across Nepal.

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And so that's just what we're doing.  Tomorrow we leave for a bonus night with our children that Britta and I took 3 days to decide whether or not that was emotionally wise, will hopefully paraglide in Pokhara with sky-high views of the Annapurna Range, and then go on a 4 day trek with Guru.  We'll come back next Friday night just in time to share one last night and morning with Oz (it has been more than wonderful reconnecting with this friend), and then Britta and I fly out (me to Doha, Qatar, to spend quality time with my darling Mandy Plummer-Heller, and Britta to see our pal Hayley in England) Saturday night.  

Hopscotch fo sho.