making mountains out of deserts

I made it to Doha, Qatar, four nights ago--27 hours, many cancelled and delayed flights late--but I made it. Mandy and Eric have continued the undeserved hospitality I have received throughout my travels. We've already eaten great food, shopped at H&M, drank coffee and tea, admired the Muslim women clothed head to toe in respect of their tradition (all the while toting outrageous purses, shoes and sunglasses...you accessorize when at all possible, I guess), cried watching 'Atonement', chosen some fine fabric, been puzzled by the Islamic men's fascination with their vehicles, and I am adjusting to the sudden shift: a land of tropics and mountains to the desert of the Middle East; a Hindu/Buddhist dominated culture to that of Islam. What an honor to be a learning drifter.

But such change did not come until after Britta and I made a surprise visit to our cuties at Harka, went on trek number two with Guru outside of Pokhara, observed Nepalis choose a new government for themselves, and spent a last day in Kathmandu with Oz and friends.

The kiddos were completely ecstatic, especially Jamuna (a much lovier, hole in her achilles tendon, child [apparently she was riding on the back of the bicycle with Prim, the house father who Britta and I cannot stand, and she got her foot caught in the back wheel spokes to the point that we're pretty sure she'll have nerve damage for the rest of her life]), Tulie, Ashish, Budi, and Manish. 'Fender' (Manish's nickname) whispered "Geeraph" from behind the door and five minutes later presented us both with works of art. My mom, dad, and sisters sent clothes for each one of the children which could not have been a bigger hit. The boys proudly displayed their WWE wrestling shirts and the girls looked beautiful in all their colorful, cute outfits.

Britta and I played Santa Claus

Tulie Bulie

The youngsters with their new outfits...pockets were popular

those girls LOVED their new style!

We spent time in the fields, helped cook, slept the night away as rain thundered on the tin roof and quieted the jungle fires that had stormed through earlier in the evening. Our goodbyes the next day were less emotional with a fulfilled promise that we would, in fact, return. Minus the fact that Secil, Sarswati, Radika, Samjana, and Ishwor were absent (visiting grandparents), our visit couldn't have been better.

Day one of trek two took us on several local buses from Lakeside (including our mountain village rooftop adventure), and climbed our way to Chiso Pani (cold water) where we saw instantly rewarding sites of the Annapurna Range (the crystal clear view was similar to what took 12 days to see in Everest) and arrived after dark to a family of 9 who took us in for the night. As Guru chatted away and made friends with everyone he met, we realized that our position as observer had escalated to literal and figurative new heights. And we definitely had our first taste of Roxy, mountain-made local liquor...could have been better.

After this first day, we quickly learned that Guru's 4-5 hour estimates were more accurately 8 hours and that it was the "Nepali way" to stop and chitchat with strangers for an average of 45 minutes. And then there was the heat...oh, the heat...it made us finished with trekking. But we pressed on, and found moments of absolute joy: when we stopped on the side of the road for a break and 3 children ran from their house to happily pick fistfuls of their wildest berries; the fact that we didn't see another foreigner for 4 of the 5 days we hiked; the hospitality of Guru's friend and his family as we acted as their unexpected guests; gnawing at sugarcane; the night sky so filled with stars that it looked as though God pricked a million holes in a black-clothed sun; the nature of walking through villages, alongside river basins, and next to the Himalayas.

A sunburn, calloused feet, hot showers, a little internet (when gloom entered my heart as I realized my Memphis Tigers had lost while I was in the mountains), and good food later, Britta and I had left Pokhara and given a last hoorah to Kathmandu. We feasted with Oz and his friends Greg, James, Alice, Kylie, Tim & Mai (who were the cutest couple/hosts that had been working for USAid since the Kennedy administration)--couldn't imagine a better send-off.

Britta is in England having an hilarious time, I'm sure, with our friend, Hayley, and I will be spoiled for the next few days here in Qatar, and enter the United States of America Saturday night. We are both so excited to see family and friends and to soon start the next chapter of this life. Thank you all for participating in our story--one that has inevitably shaped my character, passion, and family--who knew the youngest of 3 girls would ever have so many younger siblings herself!

More photos will come stateside. Until then, peace, grace and love to all, Becca.

detours

We've been nestled back into Kathmandu for the past couple of days now since our 25 day trip turned into 15 days of glorious and torturous heights.  Our tales included two Swedes, sore knees, suspension bridges, a snowstorm whose flakes resembled Dip N Dots vanilla ice cream, local lodges, a lama slumber party, mountains of the most famous caliber, the cutest (and some of the more annoying) Sherpa babies, hard decisions, and thankful encounters.  Perhaps the best way to go about this telling of our times is to just share with you some of my daily entries.  

Day One: Monday, March 17, 2008.

Our 25 days to and from Sagarmatha began with a dreaded bus ride to Jiri.  The alleged 10 hours, however, was 7, and we did not lose our lives.  It was an absolute roller coaster and Britta nervously spun our Om Shante luck ring.  I never want to forget the old monk whose eyes were glass and smile broad.  His unusually large hands comforted his sister monk like a father as the bus swerved to the dislike of her stomach and equilibrium.  We officially begin our hike tomorrow, and for the night are resting at Sagarmatha Lodge & Cafe House Restaurant, room Makalu 8463 meters (Everest is across the hall, home to the Spaniards).  Wel-come.

Day Two: Tuesday, March 18, 2008.

On our journey from Jiri to Sivalaya we took an unexpected detour some 3 hours down a valley into the backyards of farmers building houses made of stone they chiseled themselves.  We were lost.  A cute 10 year old boy held 100 Rupees in one hand and a smile in the other as we paid him a modest sum to take us to a small mountain town bordered by a river.  

Our aching bodies drank milk tea, rejoined the comradery of our Swedish boys, and gained two more: Sarah from Holland and Robbie from California [the only American we would see for 10 days], plus a host of sweet Sherpas with healthy laughs and chess skills (I got cornered into checkmate after 8 minutes).  We are joined by candlelight and food at the 'New' Sherpa Guide Lodge & Valley Restaurant that boasts of "The Best Chips in Nepal."

Day Four: Thursday, March 20, 2008.

"Hello, pen." -every child we past from Bandar to Kinja who robotically asked for pens and sweets.  A cutie little boy was the only one on the giving end as he gifted Britta with a smile and a flower.  We a much-needed pitstop in Kinja for some food and relaxation.  The sun has left us with crisp layers of red skin and our packs with arthritic shoulders and necks.  After a wee rest we plan to hike on up to Sete for a night's rest...we'll see.

And so it is that we made it up the long climb where Kinja turned into a village of dollhouses and construction men hit on us.  

We found ourselves at yet another Sherpa Guide Lodge with a beautiful stairwell, comfortable beds, and the most adorable staff (8 year old houseboy and the Nepali version of Edge, U2's electric guitar player).  With good advice from him, the German couple and their guide, and the smiling good nature of their two porters, this was more than a pleasant stay.

Day Six: Saturday, March 22, 2008.

Rest Day...and how grand it is to rest.  Our little crew of Tobie & Johan (our unofficial Swedish trekking partners) and Demien & Connor (young father and 11 year old son from Vancouver, Canada) all took the day of leisure in Junbesi at the 70s Happy New Year/Merry Christmas decor of Junbesi Guest Lodge & Restaurant.  

We anticipated our remaining journey, shared in the agony/thrill of our previous leg, read, bathed in the sun, walked around the small village, did not go to the monastery because we chose to be lazy, and found Milky-like biscuits (a favorite brand).

I also discovered Sherpa Stew...a new staple in my remaining meals.

The legs are ready for more.

Day Eight: Monday, March 24, 2008.

Starting the day off, we continued down, down, down through rainforest surroundings of singing birds and mossy trees to the foot of the Dudh Kosi River where we crossed a steel bridge that would be used in movies if only you could carry cameras through such terrain.

As we turned upward, we made a lunch pitstop in Chokha where the chairman of something (Britta's convinced he was a political figurehead) greeting us with a welcoming smile.

We continued up and down through Kara Koli and up the interminable hike to Bupsa...ah, Bupsa....our little paradise.  What we thought was  a 5:00pm arrival was actually 2:30pm, so Gajid Sherpa hosted us with our first hot shower, took us to the small town's monastery, and insisted that we spin the giant prayer wheels while Bamala, his wife, filled us up with the tastiest of food.  Part of us wants to stay here forever with the cutest Sherpa couple.

Day Ten: Wednesday, March 26, 2008.

And we made it...to Namche, that is.  The long day from Cheplung to Namche finally came and now we are waiting in this truly bizarre mini-Pokhara/Thamel Disneyworld nestled in between the Himalayas at 3440meters (11,000ish feet) with streams upon streams of Asians and pre-teen Europeans bombarding our once difficult but treasured lonely path.  

We took our time stopping in Phakding for tea and biscuits and Monjo for the best lunch yet (fresh tomato soup, hot mango juice, and homemade jam...we're definitely stopping there on the way back), and then after crossing bridge after bridge of rough wind and loose boards, we put one foot in front of the other up to Hotel Tibet where the prices have officially risen and the dinner are much warmer.  We made a pitstop late in the afternoon at the Namche Bakery (surprise, surprise) and met our first group of Americans coming back down from Kala Pathar and Island Peak.  It appears that Britta and I have reached semi-celebrity status for our long trek from Jiri with no porters.  

I slept curled up like a hermit crab which does nothing good for your back...blanket tomorrow night for sure.

And so we'll take another much-needed day off to get even more used to this lack of oxygen and tourist crowds...and hopefully clothe ourselves more appropriately for the cold.

Day Twelve:  Friday, March 28, 2008.

We woke up this morning with plans to hike to Tengboche via the Everest View Hotel.  We stored away our excess baggage, stuffed the 10 Snicker bars in our packs, hugged our boys and said Adieu (they were headed for the treasured Goyko Circuit...which I will for sure do next time)...Unfortunately, on the way up to the hotel, Britta started feeling much worse than the day before.  

With our bodies so exhausted from Jiri, the slightest bit of illness cripples the body, and so she descended back to Namche to rest and I went on to see the clouded Everest, Nuptse, and the staggering beauty of Ama Dablam.  I sipped my hot lemon in the midst of these giants and silence, minus the wind and a few birds.

I am so thankful that we made it this far, and perhaps later in my life I'll be back to visit this hidden (except to the thousands of expeditions and groups shuffled in and all the China media attention about running the torch to the top of the North Face) landscape.

We are going to try to make it to Tengboche for a few nights tomorrow via the much easier path..step by step.

If not, we've already concocted a rather fabulous remainder of our stay including K-du, Osborne, Pokhara, and our babies.

Day Thirteen: Saturday, March 29, 2008.

Once again we awoke and packed our bags for Tengboche.  We made it to the Stupa with a cloudless perfect view of Lhotse Shar, Everest, and Ama Dablam.  We took picture after picture of the mountains, us with them, Chuck (my ugly doll) and Buddha (for Britta's dad) with them.  It was beautiful.

We kissed the air, and with mixed emotions turned downwind toward Lukla.  Though my overtly competitive nature was disappointed that we couldn't be closer, that we couldn't finish our 'setout task' (whatever that American mindset means), I was far more overwhelmed with thankfulness to God for bringing us to this country together, for giving us good health, and allowing us the wisdom to maintain such health.

Thank you God for your presence, and Britta's friendship.

Day Fifteen: Monday, March 31, 2008.

As the early sun opened up my lids yet again, we watched the mountains for one last intimate time as we boarded a 20 passenger Sita Air carrier and flew in 20 minutes what it took for us 10 hours by bus and 10 days by feet.

Everything was surreal from above, as it usually is:  rice paddies and terraces that resemble an architect's model or an earth-sized tapestry.  The mountains were there, and then they weren't.  

And so we flew our tiny plane into Kathmandu, got the news that the Kathmandu Guest House was full, wandered into an even more delightful lodge, Sun Rise Cottages, and Osborne welcomed us back with open arms for the remainder of our week here.

The day continued to get better as Britta found her puffy vest, we ate a delicious dinner at the Organic Cafe (put organic in the title and Westerners will come) while eavesdropping on the table next to us that included Tim, a Canadian Everest expedition leader- definitely googling him later on- and the greatest news of all, and perhaps a perfect ending to our eclectic Nepali travels: a Guru-guided 4-day adventure in the backwoods of Pokhora--staying only with the families along the road, and getting as far away from tourists as possible.  This would be after we make a day visit back to our kiddos to pick up a package, take some photos in their new clothes sent by my family and do some lovin (we have a feeling that Jamuna is going to just run up to us crying).

This would also mean that we would have traveled to our major destinations 2 or more times each...just hopscotching across Nepal.

____

And so that's just what we're doing.  Tomorrow we leave for a bonus night with our children that Britta and I took 3 days to decide whether or not that was emotionally wise, will hopefully paraglide in Pokhara with sky-high views of the Annapurna Range, and then go on a 4 day trek with Guru.  We'll come back next Friday night just in time to share one last night and morning with Oz (it has been more than wonderful reconnecting with this friend), and then Britta and I fly out (me to Doha, Qatar, to spend quality time with my darling Mandy Plummer-Heller, and Britta to see our pal Hayley in England) Saturday night.  

Hopscotch fo sho.