boxed seats

We need to begin this week's update on Monday. Unfortunately, Britta came down with a horrible 24 bug, so in odd fashion, I went alone with the kiddos to their school program. The children were already a tadbit used to me, but it didn't stop hundreds of eyes and bodies to gravitate toward me. Luckily, I had my hands held tight by my bhais and baihinis (younger brothers and sisters), and sweet Soniya acted as my bodyguard by pushing away abrasive students and jabbering back in Nepali, that "No, she doesn't want a photo of you so back on off of us"...or something like that. Suddenly, I became a part of game. As one of the 'guardians' I was ushered into a circle created by the hundreds of giggling children made up of 20 women. The gist was that each woman tied a balloon to her ponytail and, by using only your left hand, you tried to pop all the other balloons before yours was defeated. My extreme height advantage was disqualified because of my lack of ponytail. And so with my balloon stuck to the back of my tee shirt I came in 4th place. One woman got a busted nose, and the winner started splitting wood, trekking the jungles, and building homes since she was born...and didn't start giving birth much long after that...she is a bit more hardcore than I. The seven hour program was mostly boring after that except for when Sarswati, our precious 7 year old, got one of the 3 top exam awards for the whole school!!

Britta went to the ER that day. A checkup and 4 different medicines cost a wopping $4. Seriously. And so with antibiotics and much sleep, we departed for the National Park one day and two semi-healthy women later. Our friend, Guru, in Kathmandu had made arrangements for us at the Unique Wild Resort (which was both unique and wild, I must add) with a stunning 3 day schedule that included in order: Sunset by the river, Cultural 'Program', Canoe ride, Elephant Breeding Center visit, Elephant Jungle Safari, Birdwatching, and Elephant Bathing. This, along with 2 nights stay, 3 meals of non-daal bhat, and as much dud & kalaochia (milk & black tea) as our hearts desired was the half the price of a one-night stay at any average American hotel. Basically, we got Nepali rate because we look Nepali now...we're pretty much unrecognizable.

We absolutely loved the 3 different guides from our hotel, Jaug, Lax, and Mahendra. As we first entered the national park, Jaug pointed out some fresh rhino dung. We stared at it and anxiously asked what we should do if we saw a rhino on foot. He told us that we should run very fast and climb a tree. And to our 2nd, more anxious question he answered, "Oh yes, they are known to be one of the most aggressive animals toward humans because of how many people they kill here every year...I tell you this not to scare you [he saw the fear] but to tell you truth." Grizzly bears don't even scare me as much as rhinos did at that moment. In fact, the unexpected fear factor was a common theme throughout our stay. We had a leaking canoe in man-eating, crocodile waters, our elephant busted out in a cantor half into our safari, and we were almost certain that we were going to fall off of our bathing elephant with him on top of us.

The sunset was breathtaking except for our sweet Chinese friends who kept petting and taking pictures with the stray dogs (I'm pretty sure that this is the equivalent of allowing yourself to be covered with pidgeons in Venice...you just don't do it). Our cultural program was filled with native dances and song, including an emcee who said in between all 6 programs, "Nameste, good evening and welcome back, all my viewers." With a smiling face that we were convinced was altered by alcohol or the local marijuana leaf he pronounced 'Continuously' 'Cantonese-ly'...he made us happy.

The following day we fed baby elephants crackers. Their tusks slithered around our necks as we played hide and seek with the treats. It felt like the python I allowed around my neck in elementary school. They were so adorable and we were told that we could take one home. We told Mahendra that they wouldn't get through customs and he laughed. He liked these tall Nepali women. And then it happened. While trying to reformat the remaining space on my camera's memory card to allow more space, without warning it 're-formatted' all of my photos...meaning that it deleted them...all 250. Since my computer hasn't worked since my first week at the orphan home, I lost the past month's worth of photos. There was a photo-shaped hole in my universe for about 24 hours. But Britta has taken fabulous shots, I got the jungle safari and bathing moments...and for the hour that I was at the orphan home this afternoon, I took at least 30 pictures of the kids. It still was wretched in the moment.

But a few hours later I was sitting on top of an elephant looking at crocodile, peacocks, monkeys, and a mama rhino with her 5 week old baby. That will pretty much put anyone in a better mood!! Besides breaking out in full speed at one point, it was fabulously awkward and unfamiliar to sit atop such an enormous beast of an animal...and Britta and I were convinced that the baby rhino was actually a robotic dinosaur from Jurassic Park. After the elephant dropped us off in town, we enjoyed a quiet dinner at our resort. Lax, the youngest guide, stopped by to check in with our day. We ended up talking about being raised in the park as a child (2 of his best friends were killed by the wildlife--one tiger, one rhino), were amazed at his fluent English, and enjoyed comparing annoying guest stories from our different hotel experiences in National Parks on other sides of the world (Evidently, Indian guests carry a bad stereotype of being high-maintenance...open-aired jeeps get to much dust in the hair).

Our last morning we watched a couple male peacocks literally 'shake their tailfeathers' to get the attention of the surrounding ladies...one took a little more time than the other...ladies just sometimes aren't impressed even with the fanciest of tailfeathers. Shortly after our birdwatching, Britta and I made our way down to the riverside to watch the elephants bathing. We were invited to join in the bath, and cautiously stepped all over his dry, dusty skin to ride this elephant bareback. We were sure we would fall, but eventually got the rhythym of his shoulders under our thighs and held onto each other for dear life (Eventually I'll figure out a way to put these photos up, because we laughed or screamed the entire time...and they're hilarious). With such a roller coaster ride's worth of adrenaline, I can't help but look on that experience as the highlight from our little adventure.

We left with an eagerness to see our kiddos. We were like proud parents talking about them our entire time away, and they greeted us with hugs and kisses (and a couple angry moods that said 'Don't ever leave us again' that sooner than later turned into giggles and held hands). 5 weeks in and only 3 weeks remain of our time at Harka. We don't like to think about it, really...we just keep on participating in the imaginitative world of fire, rockets, moons, treasures, and tickles that turn to breathless laughter.